Some commissions stay with you long after the ring has been delivered. This bespoke 18ct gold signet ring is one of them. Made for Bryher, who came to me wanting to transform her mother's old engagement ring into something bold, contemporary, and entirely her own, this piece is a testament to what bespoke jewellery can be when it carries real meaning.

18ct Recycled Gold Hammered Toi et Moi Rectangle Signet Ring

Reimagining an Heirloom Engagement Ring

Bryher arrived at my studio with her mother's old engagement ring — a piece full of sentiment but no longer worn. Rather than letting it sit forgotten in a jewellery box, she wanted to give the diamonds and gold a new life in a design she would actually reach for every day.

The brief was clear: contemporary, bold, and sculptural. Nothing delicate or traditional. She was drawn to strong shapes and statement pieces, and the idea of carrying her mother's actual gold and diamonds forward into a completely new design felt deeply meaningful to her.

The original 18ct gold diamond and aquamarine engagement ring

Using the Original Gold in the Cast

One of the most special aspects of this commission is that the gold from her mother's ring was melted down and incorporated directly into the casting of the new ring. Additional 18ct gold was added to achieve the right volume, but a part of the original ring lives on in the metal itself — not just symbolically, but physically.

Designing a Chunky Hammered Gold Signet Ring

After our initial consultation, where we talked through Bryher's taste, the styles she was drawn to, and how she wanted to wear the ring, I carved a wax model of the band. The design is a bold rectangular signet shape — wide, flat-topped, and substantial — made to sit confidently on the hand without apology.

Once the wax model was approved, the ring was cast in 18ct yellow gold using the combined metal. After casting, I worked the surface by hand to create the hammered texture that gives the ring its organic, tactile quality. The faceted surface catches the light beautifully and softens what could otherwise feel like a very graphic, hard-edged shape.

A Toi et Moi Diamond Setting

To hold her mother's two diamonds, I chose a toi et moi arrangement — a style historically associated with romantic connection and togetherness, the name literally translating from French as "you and me." The two diamonds sit side by side, flush-set in clean bezel settings that feel modern and understated against the hammered gold surface.

Toi et moi engagement rings have seen a significant resurgence in recent years, particularly among those seeking something non-traditional and design-led. This interpretation in a flat signet format feels both current and timeless — the kind of ring that will be as relevant in thirty years as it is today.

The two diamonds are the same stones that once sat in her mother's ring. They haven't been replaced or supplemented — they are exactly as they were, simply given a new setting, a new home, and a new story.

Delivering the Ring in Person

Bryher lives locally to me, which meant I was able to deliver the finished ring to her in person. Moments like these are so so precious to me as a jeweller who works predominantly online. Seeing someone hold a piece for the first time — something made from their family's jewellery, designed around their personality — is genuinely one of the greatest privileges of being a bespoke jeweller. She loved it, and it was precious to witness.

A Contemporary Heirloom Engagement Ring

This ring is everything bespoke jewellery should be: rooted in personal history, crafted with care, and designed to last a lifetime. By using her mother's gold and diamonds, Bryher now has a piece that carries her family forward in a form that feels completely and uniquely her.

If you have inherited jewellery you'd love to reimagine into something bold and contemporary, I'd love to hear your story. Share a little about the pieces you have and the style you're drawn to, and we can begin shaping something that's uniquely yours.

No question is ever a silly question so send me a message to ask anything you want to know about designing a piece of jewellery, costs of such work and how to get the most from any jewellery you own but no longer feel connected to.

A Bespoke 18ct Gold Hammered Signet Ring Using Heirloom Diamonds and Gold